Big Star taqueria and bar opened in Chicago’s Bucktown back in November at the site of the former neighborhood haunt The Pontiac Cafe. With no distinguishing features to lure the unknowing passerby into its lair, Big Star’s structure is a concrete slab painted a drab, gray(ish) color. Remembering that The Pontiac Cafe was a rather lustily colored, garish looking building, and, without a street address in the front of the building, I drove past two times back and forth before realizing that, yes, the stark, squat structure was, in fact, my destination.
It was a Sunday, and, at the time, Big Star wasn’t open until 4 PM on the weekends (they now open at 11:30 AM Friday, Saturday & Sunday) and I was early. And hungry. And freezing. So I parked the car (which is a laugh and a half in Bucktown) and ducked into some place across from Big Star for warmth and a little nibble just to tide me over.
As I sat watching, waiting for Big Star to open I spotted people milling about in front of it. Occasionally someone would knock on the door and an employee would open it to ostensibly tell them when they will open. People would leave and some would return and others would show up. To someone passing by it might have looked a little suspicious, people waiting around in the freezing cold in front of a building with absolutely nothing to indicate what it is. I kept imagining a constable from Monty Python’s Flying Circus coming around asking, “What’s all this, then?”.
Finally it was time to open and I made my way outside back into the cold to wait – thankfully, only for a few minutes (or so memory serves). I, unlike some patrons, was prepared to utilize the ATM inside as they only accept cash. What I wasn’t prepared for was being asked for my driver’s license to hold for my tab. I guess they’re figuring it gets too busy and it’s too easy to dine/drink & dash.
The room is warm and inviting, much like chef/partner Paul Kahan’s other establishments Avec and The Publican. Lots of pale blond wood and a gentle, embracing ambiance. Big Star, first and foremost, is a bar, featuring a veritable who’s who of bourbons, whiskeys and tequilas. I’m not much of a drinker, but felt it right and proper to order something alcoholic. So I set my sights on a Sarsaparilla Springs, featuring Buffalo Trace bourbon and AJ Stephans root beer. To my tastes, it was a sharp and bitter swallow, but ultimately mellowed out. I’m a light-weight when it comes to drinking, so if you’re an imbiber, don’t let this deter you from checking out the place. For God’s sake, they’ve got $1 Schlitz beer! I mean, you can’t beat $1 beer, you just can’t.
Blasting through the speakers was a treasure trove of great country or country-tinged music either via LP (when the servers have time to DJ) or CD. The music and the liquor alone gave this stark environment its character and you can just tell that, as time wears on, that character will soak into every pour of Big Star, from the bar stools to the booths to the very floor itself. It’s inevitable and welcome by the owners I’m told.
Bar though it may be, the food of the taqueria portion and Kahan’s involvement, is what is making people come out to the place in droves. And what food! I ordered up the spit-roasted Tacos al pastor (marinated, spit-roasted pork shoulder with grilled pineapple, grilled onion and cilantro – $2 a piece) and de panza (crispy braised pork belly with tomato guajillo sauce, Queso Rancherito and cilantro – $3 a piece). I wolfed them down as if I hadn’t eaten in days. The tacos are small, yes, but packed full of deliciousness. I can’t say I ever had al pastor before but I knew I was in love. The tender meat was complimented nicely by the grilled pineapple. I also had never tried pork belly before, but if this was what can be done with it I wanted more. The tomato quajillo sauce played nicely on my tongue.
So I ordered more of those, along with Tacos de chivo (marinated, braised Slagel Family Farm goat with radish and roasted scallion – $2 a piece) and Tostada el pollo (wood-grilled chicken thigh, chayote, black beans, poblano cream, coriander and red onion – $3 a piece). This was my third time trying goat and I swore that, if Big Star couldn’t turn me on to this offbeat meat I was giving up on trying any other.
Well they succeeded where others failed. Maybe it’s the braising that’s crucial to making goat pleasurable to eat. I have to imagine so because, as complimentary as the radishes and scallions were, they didn’t make or break this taco. The Tostada el pollo was good overall, perhaps a little too benign considering what went into my mouth beforehand. The chicken was tender and succulent and that poblano cream really wrapped itself around my tongue (Sidebar: why does writing about food conjure images of sex in my mind?).
Much of the consumer write-ups I’ve read online have been overwhelmingly positive, albeit really nit-picky by and large. Most of the complaints center on the long waits and the fact that Big Star only seats parties of 4 or more at the booths. Well, yeah! You have a booth that can accommodate four or more people, does it make sense to seat just two people there? Wait for your turn at the bar!
What these complaints mean to me is that Big Star is doing everything right. The honky-tonk/dive bar is nearly three months into its life now and, with the crowds still packed to overflowing (people are being asked to wait outside or come back when they’re at capacity), it’s not just because of empty hype. It’s because people want a cool, hip place to have a good drink and down some excellent, bar-appropriate food. I’m looking forward to my return to Big Star soon. I recommend you, in the immortal words of 30 Rock’s Liz Lemon, “go to there” ASAP to judge for yourselves.
Read Rock ‘n Roll Ghost’s interview with Big Star’s Paul Kahan here.
Big Star is located at 1531 N. Damen Ave. Chicago, IL 60622 (view map).
For more info, call: (773) 235-4039
Hours of Operation:
Monday – Thursday 4:00 p.m. – 2:00 a.m.
Friday 11:30 a.m. – 2:00 a.m.
Saturday 11:30 a.m. – 3:00 a.m.
Sunday11:30 a.m. – 2:00 a.m.
